Ha Giang
May 2015
"start of the circuit"
Do not be confused. Ha Giang town is the de facto capital of the Ha Giang Province. Dong Van
and Meo Vac are other townships in the same province.
There are really two ways to reach Ha Giang from Hanoi. You can go via either:
1) a sleeper bus from Hanoi’s My Dinh station
- approximately 10 hours from 10pm, will reach at 6am
2) a day bus to Lao Cai and then transfer via a van to Ha Giang
- Take a fast day bus from Hanoi to Lao Cai (Sapa Express) ~ 5 hours
- the bus driver will drop you off in the middle of nowwhere. motorcycles
will bring you to the
bus station of Lao Cai (you must reach BEFORE 12:30PM as that is the only minivan to Ha Giang)
- transfer via an uncomfortable minivan from Lao Cai to Ha Giang (another 6 hours)
I certainly recommend Option 1.
There are some food options around the bus station to Ha Giang.
By the time you reach Ha Giang, it would be dusk. Find a nice motel to bunk in for the
night. Most motels would have motorbikes for rental (approximately $15USD/day).
For a comfortable journey, try to do the Ha Giang > Dong Van > Meo Vac > Ha Giang circuit
within 3 days. I completed the loop in 2 simply because I do not have enough time. Always
ensure of these days is a Sunday as it would coincide with a local weekend market.
Food options are really limited in the entire province. Restaurants are unimaginably dirty and
do not open in between lunch and dinner. Having your meals tainted by various insects is commonplace
but the people are always friendly and ready to toast you with a frosty bottle of Bia Hoi.
Never attempt to ride in the dark. Start your day with a full tank of diesel and ride your way out of Ha Giang to
the starting point (it is not that easy to navigate this part, so ask around).
From the starting point it would take a FULL day of riding (10-12 hours) in possibly adverse weather to cover
the 150-160km distance between Ha Giang to Dong Van. Bring snacks, water and protective clothing to endure
this arduous journey. There will be a re-fuel point at Yen Minh and at various villages but none in between, so
always watch your fuel gauge.
The roads are always dusty but thiner (and the scenery more spectacular) as we climb towards Dong Van. Never
underestimate the distance as the curvy but mostly sealed roads mean you would only be riding at 20-25km/hr.
Despite it being a friday, we were fortunate enough to witness a Sunday Market at a town about 2 hours from
the starting point. We shared a meal of organ soup (yikes!) with the locals. Everyone was friendly and curious.
It would be another 6 hours of riding until you reach Yen Minh. Remember to refuel your petrol at the
large petrol kiosk. The scenery changes from flat ground to steeper climbs up (and sometimes down) along
the way. Nevertheless, you will see more and more people (of all ages) in traditional tribal garbs minding their
daily affairs - hunting, agriculture and carrying heavy goods.
editor's note:
Leica M6, Fuji Silvi 2.8, Velvia 50, Astia 100, Portra 400, TX 400
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