Almost tropical waters, white sandy beach and the usual distractions at Da Dong Hai.
Sanya Region (三亚)
Welcome to Sanya, many northern Chinese and Russians' winter sabbatical. Because of its overwhelming popularity, some say Sanya has fallen prey to development. For me, I still think it retains a certain beach-resort vibe, and offers pretty good shopping: the perfect combination for the likes of many.
So should we start? Sanya is tucked right at the southern tip of Hainan island. Sanya city is lined by Sanya bay, a long stretch of beach that is overwhelmed by too many tourists and its water quality is as bad as Singapore's. Most Chinese tourists will tend to stay around Sanya city. From Sanya city, take city loop bus 2,4 (if available),8 to Da Dong Hai. Each ride costs only RMB$1 (fixed). Da Dong Hai offers plenty of hotels/inns aimed at backpackers. For the cheapest hotel (Sea View Hotel), rates start at RMB$250 off-season. Da Dong Hai has a prettier beach; although it often suffers from seawood/algae bloom and turns the whole coast into patches of slimy green.
20 kms (and RMB$50) by a taxi from Sanya will bring you to Yalong bay. Yalong bay offers only luxurious resorts (think Hilton and etc) starting at RMB$1000 a night. Beach huts/stands are exclusively for resort guests in this place. However, you may still enjoy the beach - white sands, strong currents with clearer water (but nowhere near Thailand's).
A few years ago, you could arrange for an exorbitant (but probably rewarding) trip to the Paracel islands. However, as of 2010, the islands are closed from all tourist activites.
Restaurants like these are especially scenic but their charges are nowhere near friendly.
Before I start rattling about Sanya, do understand that Sanya has a sizeable population of minorities. Their women have a darker skin shade and some wear a headscarf. I guess this is something unique about Sanya that you can't see in Haikou.
Always do remember, from my first article on introduction to Hainan, that 3-wheel motorbikes roam the city. Sometimes using their services might be essential, but NEVER let them dictate you to a place. Their favorite trick would be to tell you that your current location lacks good fresh seafood, and they can bring you to a cheaper "local" seafood spot. More often than not, they will bring you to some secluded spot with one or two restaurants (like the picture above) and they will collect commissions from these restaurants.
Sanya Bay (三亚湾)
Sanya Bay is quite a stretch of sea along Sanya city. The bay at all times of the day, teems with life. At night, you can see senior citizens singing karaoke or exercising by the sea. New-age Chinese would also walk their dogs by the coast. You will however, never be able to spot a sun-tanning Chinese.
The city starts at the main bus terminal, which lies on the main road: jie fang lu. Along Jie Fang Lu is where you will find all the modern comforts of life - McDonald's, shopping district and night markets. Do remember to check out the night market at "Di Yi Guang Cang" (First Square).
Unless you are absolutely keen, trying not to lodge in Sanya Bay. Take a bus down to Da Dong Hai instead.
Ethnic minorities trading handphones in the night market.
Da Dong Hai (大东海)
Literally the Great Eastern Sea, Da Dong Hai is another bay where prettier hotels (albeit more expensive) can be found. Spend a full day lazing on the beach (huts for rental at RMB$30 for 2 hours), waddling in the sea (free), surfing (RMB$200 for a full day), diving or what not. There is a huge mall in the process of opening, with many more condominums in construction.
The beach of Da Dong Hai is more serene, less populated and cleaner. Western tourists, particularly Russians, love Da Dong Hai. You will be surprised to see Chinese and Cyrillic words everywhere. English unfortunately, is not well understood.
As in anywhere else in China, sea sport rentals are not subject to stringent checks, hence, engage any risky activities at your very own risk.
For breakfast, there are a few local road side eateries that serve cheap and tasty (but quite salty) porridge, buns and "deep fried dough". For lunch and dinner, you may succumb to the ubiquitous fresh seafood restaurant or relive your younger days in Coffee World a western-american restaurant or dine with the Russians in Blue Lotus restaurant. Blue Lotus serves good bacon and beef (RMB$55) and also has a selection of Russian food, like borsch and stroganoff. There are plenty of bars in Da Dong Hai. If you do not look Chinese, try to avoid all street vendors selling fruits, unless you have hard bargaining skills.
A meal of potatoes and pork cutlet at the Blue Lotus.
In Conclusion
Hainan, like many other places in China is a good place for travelling, however, do not come solely for the beach/sea sports, as you will be disappointed.