Tong Gu Lin: Hainan's secret eastern cove
Wenchang City (文昌)
Wenchang city is a major source of immigration to Singapore. Before 1965 (year of Singapore's independence), many emigrated over in search of a better life. Today, Hainanese still continue to arrive in Singapore - but mostly as brides, for Singaporean grooms.
The trace of Hainan in Singapore is clearly evident. For the uninitiated, Singapore's famous "Hainan Chicken Rice" has its roots in "Wenchang Chicken" - perhaps Hainan's most popular meal. Though the two has clearly departed in flavor, taste and texture, they look absolutely similar. Hainan Chicken Rice is more tender with a juicy afterbite; Wenchang Chicken appears more flavorful, but it is rubbery in texture.
Wenchang Chicken
So what's there to do in Wenchang? In my opinion, barely anything besides trying out Wenchang Chicken (warning: might not quite appeal to the Singaporean palate). However, the more adventurous can check out Tong Gu Lin - essentially small hills overlooking nice beaches and deserted coves.
Tong Gu Lin
Getting to Tong Gu Lin is no easy feat. Allow yourself at least 2 days at least. From Wenchang, take a bus from the only bus terminal to this little town - Long Lou (龙楼). The local bus will take you 1 hour and cost RMB$10. After reaching 龙楼, hire a 3-wheel motorbike to take you to Yun Long Wan (RMB$8, 15mins). There are only 2 places to stay in Yun Long Wan - 1 is cheap (RMB$100/night) but dirty, the other expensive but perhaps more luxurious.
From Yun Long Wan, arrange for a 3-wheel motorbike (he will leave you his number, ask the hostel/hotel person to call him when you need his service) to take you to Tong Gu Lin and Gu Song Village (allow 1 full day for the 2 trips, and almost RMB$60-80). While there isn't much you can do in Gu Song Village, other than take a photograph of a rather interesting Chinese village nestled between coconut trees, there are many aged villagers there who will be happy to pose for a photo or two and converse with you (provided you can speak Hainanese).
Gu Song Village - a unqiue place to immerse in the rural side.
Besides bringing you to places, 3-wheel motorbikes can serve as a local guide.
Getting out
After spending 2 days 1 night (minimum in Tong Gu Lin), take either a return bus to Haikou or continue in a local bus (RMB$20, 1.5hours) to Qiong Hai, where the famous (supposedly) Bo'ao is within reach.